Women’s Fashion Week resulted in Milan on Monday.
Listed below are a few of the developments that emerged for autumn-winter 2023-2024 — a return to class underscored by reduce and high quality, stylish sensuality, and restrained classicism with a smattering of eccentric spice.
Elegant fits
Italian trend homes have ditched sporty designs and streetwear for elegant, classically reduce fits in refined materials.
Trousers are lengthy and shoe-covering. Outsized power-shoulder jackets have made method for traditional cuts — waisted, belted or gathered on the again.
Dolce & Gabbana confirmed fits with jackets which are cropped, matador model, or lengthy however structured with wasp waists.
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Fendi opted for slimline jackets with a single row of buttons, discrete lapel collars and a deconstructed males’s waistcoat.
Ferragamo was all cinched-waisted silhouettes, harking back to Nineteen Fifties Hollywood divas.
Max Mara’s coats are gathered on the again, Tod’s jackets waisted or belted, whereas Moschino went for fits with houndstooth and gold buttons à la Chanel.
Winter lingerie
The results of local weather change made themselves felt on the Milan podiums, the place winter collections have been diaphanous and revealing, and lingerie a lot in proof.
Dolce & Gabbana claimed possession of this pattern, displaying a corset bearing a label with its creation date — 1991. Its assortment was virtually fully composed of black underwear.
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Fendi layered child dolls over poplin shirts.
Roberto Cavalli vamped on the theme, with lengthy hippy variations in silk and velvet.
Gucci opted for bijou micro bras and underwear seen by way of see-through petticoats.
Yeti coats
All-enveloping Yeti-style coats in furry or feathery textiles additionally took to the rostrum — a vital addition to the skimpy underwear for these eager to not catch their deaths of chilly.

Gucci provided up Cruella Deville and blue pretend fur. Roberto Cavalli’s pretend furs are an object lesson in artwork imitating nature.
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There have been purple feathers at Dolce & Gabbana, multicoloured plumes at Moschino.
Max Mara’s signature teddy bear coats are extremely snuggly.
MSGM diversified the theme in mauve, lemon and white boucle, with fringes or lengthy fur.
Ferragamo’s iterations are available in pearly gray or flaming purple.
Crimson and black
Whereas black was all over the place, there was nonetheless a thread of purple to jive it up, in all shades from scarlet to bordeaux.
Ferrari, which has launched a ready-to-wear assortment, caught to its iconic purple however saved it discreet, within the lining of sombre-hued coats or in black-bordered swatches on dressing robe coats.
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Dolce & Gabbana went for head-to-toe scarlet — sheer purple tights, purple patent sandals, purple attire, purple luggage, purple gloves, purple lipstick.
Ferragamo added vermillion to minidresses and used it in splashes on black, on bakelite button to mild up a black gown and in stitching on a black swimsuit.
MSGM chosen raspberry purple for a gown embracing the rounded contours of a pregnant mannequin.
Prada’s leather-based swimsuit skirts are scarlet, whereas Fendi demonstrated but once more how nicely purple marries with electrical pink.
Uniforms and utility clothes
Prada led the best way with this pattern, reworking the white of nurses’ uniforms into lengthy shirts with brief trains and the extreme, old style capes of World Battle Two operators.
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The gathering’s officers’ trousers, worn with cravats, are tight-fitted and its slimline slacks high-waisted to present them a female contact.
There have been aviators’ jackets at Tod’s and leather-based officers’ belts with little pockets.
Fendi’s tackle utility clothes concerned including aprons to trousers or deconstructing blue workman’s overalls.
By Isabelle Sciamma © Agence France-Presse